NEARLY UPHILL – GREAT WALKS IN NORTH WALES & MORE!

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Llanfairfechan Circular Walk: Garreg Fawr & Bwlch y Ddeufaen

This circular walk starts in Llanfairfechan and takes you up to the excellent viewpoints on Garreg Fawr. From here you’ll be rewarded with big skies and wide-ranging views. The Carneddau rise behind you, and out to the North Wales coast, Puffin Island and Anglesey. I’ve included a full route and a 3D Flythrough of the route which you can jump to by clicking here – Llanfairfechan Garreg Fawr Circular Route Guide

A person stands on a rocky mountaintop next to a dog, with scenic mountains and a blue sky in the background.
The summit of Garreg Fawr

The highest point on the route is at Bwlch y Ddeufaen which means the pass of the two stones. If you’ve got the legs and the time, you can easily extend your day with climbs to Drum or Foel Lwyd for extra height and even broader views. However, this circular itself usually takes around 3 hours and is ideal for a half-day outing with a good mix of terrain.

A group of horses grazing on a grassy hillside scattered with rocks, under a cloudy sky.

Being right on the edge of the Carneddau, you might also spot some of the resident Carneddau ponies as you walk.

Panoramic view of a coastal town and surrounding hills under a clear blue sky.
Views over Puffin Island and Penmaenmawr Head

As you head up towards Garreg Fawr, it’s hard not to start wondering about the history of the site – especially when you see on the map all the historic points, mounds, cairns, settlements. Just a short walk in the other direction takes you to three 5000 year old stone circles – see my Cefn Coch ‘Druid’s Circle’ route guide.

A panoramic view of a hilly landscape with lush green fields and a coastline by the sea under a partly cloudy sky.

Garreg Fawr is home to an Iron Age settlement, chosen for its wide views over the coast and easy access to the high ground of the Carneddau. Just along the ridge is Dinas, another hillfort above Llanfairfechan, which helps explain why this area feels so well connected rather than remote. You can use Dinas as a useful visual reference as you walk this route – it has a very obvious outline.

A scenic view of a rocky landscape with large boulders in the foreground, surrounded by heather and rolling hills under a partly cloudy sky.

The route I’m sharing only touches on small sections of much older paths, but even that adds something extra to the walk. A long-established track runs from Rowen, crossing the hills at Bwlch y Ddeufan and linking the Conwy Valley with the coast. Later, parts of this high ground were used as a Roman road, and in medieval times sections became known as the Pilgrims’ Way, guiding travellers towards religious sites on Anglesey. You are not following these routes in full, but it is reassuring to know that people have been choosing these same lines through the hills for centuries simply because they make sense.

Garreg Fawr Circular Walk – Route Map & Guide

Topographic map of Llanfairfechan area, featuring marked trails, elevation contours, and notable landmarks including Garreg Fawr.
Llanfairfechan Circular Walk on OS Maps

Where to Park

Park in a small layby on a hair-pin bend on the lower side of Nant Y Coed Nature Reserve. There’s room for quite a few cars, but on busy days you can also park a little lower down this road and walk up to the start.

3D Flythrough of the OS Maps Route
Elevation profile chart showing a total ascent of 1182 feet over a distance of 5.07 miles, with key elevation points marked at 464 ft, 414 ft, 1411 ft, and 458 ft.
This diagram shows the total elevation of the walk

The route starts by heading over the river via s small bridge and then down Valley Road until you reach a footpath sign on the left.

A peaceful, winding gravel path surrounded by trees and shrubs under a bright blue sky.
A metal gate leading to a hillside path, surrounded by overgrown bushes and trees. A sign is posted near the gate indicating restrictions.

Follow the path up the hill until and pass Hengae Cottages heading up until you reach a track.

A winding dirt path leads through a green field toward a wooden gate, with bare trees and a coastal view in the background under a blue sky.
A dirt path winding uphill through a grassy slope with scattered shrubs and a tree under a blue sky with clouds.
The track is nice and obvious on the way up
A dirt path winding through a hilly landscape with green fields and scattered trees, under a partly cloudy sky.
Looking back at Dinas

Follow the track up the hill until you reach a ladder stile.

A wooden ladder leading over a stone wall, with a metal gate visible beside it, against a backdrop of a lake and blue sky with scattered clouds.

Turn left after the ladder stile and head up the hill towards the summit of Garreg Fawr

A panoramic view of a landscape featuring hills, bodies of water, and distant mountains under a clear blue sky with some clouds.
Stunning views of Anglesey
A rugged landscape featuring large rocks in the foreground with rolling hills and a cloudy sky in the background.
Dinas to the left and Foel Lwyd in the background

You’ll pass a large cracked rock on your way up to the summit of Garreg Fawr. From here you will see spectacular views not only of the coast but towards the Carneddau.

Person standing on a rocky mountain top with a dog, holding a pole, with panoramic views of hills and valleys in the background.
There’s a flag pole at the summit of Carreg Fawr (no flag when i was there however – it is a very windy spot!)

Just a little further and you’re at the rocky summit of Carreg Fawr – it’s breathtaking!

A landscape featuring rugged rocks in the foreground with grassy terrain, and rolling mountains in the background, partially covered with snow under a cloudy sky.
A little snow on top of the higher Carneddau

After the summit of Garreg Fawr your next destination on this route is to get to Bwlch y Ddeufaen, which is the col inbetween Drum and Foel Lwyd, it’s also the highest point in this walk so there’s still some climbing uphill to be done.

A wooden signpost along a grassy path with hiking trail markers, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and cloudy skies.

If you have a clear day the paths are all visible on the ground from the summit of Garreg Fawr, continue along the path heading down off Garreg Fawr until you reach an obvious left turn heading up towards Bwlch y Ddeufaen.

A weathered wooden signpost at a trail intersection, with grassy hills and a cloudy sky in the background.
A sign post showing 4 directions – Rowen, Drum, Llanfairfechan and Aber – this really is an important crossroads in the lower Carneddau

At this point if you had the time, instead of heading towards Rowen, you could reroute and walk up a track to Drum via Carnedd y Ddelw.

A scenic landscape featuring several horses grazing in a grassy field, surrounded by hills and power lines in the background.

You should see Pylons heading off into the gap (Bwlch y Ddeufaen)between Drum and Foel Lwyd.

A scenic view of a hilly landscape featuring heather-covered ground, grass, and rocky outcrops under a cloudy sky, with power lines and pylons in the distance.
A view of a metal gate set within a stone wall, leading to a grassy pathway with hills in the background under a cloudy sky.
Looking over the gate on the track down to Rowen at Blwch y Ddaefaen
A weathered stone marker stands in a grassy landscape with rolling hills in the background and overcast skies.

This next section is a bit tricky. Not because it’s steep or exposed – it’s just the path can be a little elusive. There are slate markers with numbers on that pop up randomly amid the gorse to let you know you’re on the right path.

You now head down towards the sea – trying your best to find tracks through the gorse, it can be a bit of a maze if you’re keen not to scratch your legs until you hit upon a clear path.

A scenic path winding through green shrubbery on a hillside overlooking a body of water under a cloudy sky.
A scenic landscape showing rolling hills leading to a body of water in the distance, with a stone marker pointing left in the foreground.

Keep looking for the little slate signs – they’re quite confusing with numbers and wrrows, however I suspect if there were no gorse it would all make more sense – just keep heading towrds the valley to the left of Dinas on your map. Take care not to go too low towards Afon Ddu as it’s banks are steep as you enter the valley and you’ll end up scrabbling back up the hill to find the exit gate.

A metal gate next to a stone wall, overlooking rolling hills and a body of water under a cloudy sky.
Eventually you’ll find a swing gate, no more gorse!
A scenic landscape featuring rolling hills, sparse trees, and tall grass, with a body of water visible in the distance under a cloudy sky.
Dinas to the right, the path is boggy and not clear – keep the fence to your right and head down towards the sea to the left of Dinas (the hill on the right)
A black and white dog sitting near a stone wall, overlooking a scenic landscape with trees and a lake in the background.
The path follows a wall down into the valley
A pathway leading through rocky terrain, with a stone marker and a dog visible to the right.
More slate sign posts to point the way back to the Nature Reserve
A scenic view along a dirt path surrounded by bare trees and grassy areas, leading down to a body of water in the distance under a cloudy sky.
A metal gate opens into a muddy path surrounded by bare trees and dry leaves, with stone walls on either side.

This swing gate leads you back onto Valley road, head down until you reach the bridge crossing from the start.

A pathway leading into a wooded area with bare trees and a signpost that reads 'Nant y Coed.'

Alternatively, to the right you’ll see a small car park and the opportunity instead to walk back through Nant Y Coed Nature Reserve. The only difficulty is that there are stepping stones which are often unpassable.

A serene forest scene featuring a gentle stream surrounded by rocky outcrops and leafy trees. A stone wall is partially visible, with a path leading up the hillside in the background.
Stepping Stones in Nant Y Coed Nature Reserve

After the stepping stones it’s an easy walk through the pretty woodland of the Nature reserve beneath Dinas directly to the hair pin bend layby where you parked. If you have to turn back simply rejoin Valley Road.

I hope you enjoy this route I have lots more to explore – do leave a comment if you have any questions about the route.

Hilary

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